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Post by caterina on May 10, 2021 9:52:09 GMT
Hello. During the weekend I tried out a resist to make a small bag in Corriedale wool. www.dropbox.com/s/ha5951mz44d4rwp/img_20210510_104641.jpg?dl=0I confess that I did not follow step-by-step the ebook on resist felting, I kind of remembered and played on what I remembered, using a resist that I already had..maybe it was not the best of shapes for the bag, as I am now left wondering if the handles aren't too flimsy for the weight of the bag itself, not to mention when I will put stuff in it. How would you go about strenghtening the handles? www.dropbox.com/s/mq8cowz0hnifxt3/img_20210510_104801.jpg?dl=0I have no sewing machine, so I was thinking about stitching all around the handles by hand, but then maybe it would make breakages more probable where the stitches end. Maybe I could full the handles more than the rest,to make them stiffer? I feel that I need a bit more fulling of the whole bag anyway. Or add wool to the handles (needle felted and then wet felted it on?) to make them thicker? Caterina
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Post by MTRuth on May 10, 2021 14:41:48 GMT
Caterina,
Great bag but it definitely needs a lot more fulling. I would start there. You could needle felt some more wool on to the handle area and see if you can get that to felt in. I would put more wool around the entire circumference of the hole that makes the handles.
The other idea is to use a couple of pieces of medium weight fabric that would be cut to shape to make a lining. It would look like one side of the bag including the handle. You would need to stitch then together which takes more time since you don't have a sewing machine but it would provide support when you put things into the bag. You would then need to stitch the lining into the felt to hold it in place doing a lot of stitching in the handle area. I hope that makes sense.
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Post by lyn on May 10, 2021 15:19:35 GMT
Pretty bag Caterina! I like Ruth's ideas.
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Post by caterina on May 10, 2021 21:33:39 GMT
Caterina, Great bag but it definitely needs a lot more fulling. I would start there. You could needle felt some more wool on to the handle area and see if you can get that to felt in. I would put more wool around the entire circumference of the hole that makes the handles. The other idea is to use a couple of pieces of medium weight fabric that would be cut to shape to make a lining. It would look like one side of the bag including the handle. You would need to stitch then together which takes more time since you don't have a sewing machine but it would provide support when you put things into the bag. You would then need to stitch the lining into the felt to hold it in place doing a lot of stitching in the handle area. I hope that makes sense. Thank you, Ruth. Yes, now that I am a bit more into felting I can see that it definitely needs more fulling: a few weeks ago I could have mistaken it for done, but it is not. I left it wet to go back to it as soon as I have more time, and I will try to do as you suggest, needle felt more wool and then wet felt again, and a lot of rubbing. The lining idea seems great as well, and useful in more ways than one. I do not know when I will have the time, but it will be worthwhile.
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Post by caterina on May 10, 2021 21:38:22 GMT
Pretty bag Caterina! I like Ruth's ideas. Thank you, Lyn. It is still wet, so the colours are actually a bit different: it's pumpkin orange, not a very red orange as in the photo. And the sari silk fiber will be a lot lighter, once it will be dry. I will post another photo when it will be finished.
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Post by Ann @ frabjous fabrica on May 11, 2021 7:17:36 GMT
If the bag is wet when you needlefelt more fibres on, don't forget to dry the needle(s) before storing them again. They go rusty! In fact a little oil, or even running the needles through some raw (unwashed) fleece should help stop that. Ann
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Post by caterina on May 11, 2021 20:16:33 GMT
If the bag is wet when you needlefelt more fibres on, don't forget to dry the needle(s) before storing them again. They go rusty! In fact a little oil, or even running the needles through some raw (unwashed) fleece should help stop that. Ann Thank you, Ann: I didn't think about that! Good tip! Of course, it happened to me with embroidery and cross-stitch needles when I used to embroider a lot in the summer (getting sweat on the needle, same rusty results) , but it never occurred to me to dry them afterwards, how silly of me! Thanks! Caterina
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Post by Shepherdess on May 12, 2021 1:50:01 GMT
When you continue fulling try not to stretch the holes any bigger. I would do some rolling too. cover it in plastic or a shear if that's what you use and rolling on a textured surface. like a glass washboard or a boot tray, car floor mat or maybe the tray that goes under a dish drain rack. the plastic or shear will protect it.
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Post by Ann @ frabjous fabrica on May 12, 2021 7:33:38 GMT
When you continue fulling try not to stretch the holes any bigger. I would do some rolling too. cover it in plastic or a shear if that's what you use and rolling on a textured surface. like a glass washboard or a boot tray, car floor mat or maybe the tray that goes under a dish drain rack. the plastic or shear will protect it. Or a bamboo blind or really anything that is rough rather than sharp to add friction to your rolling or rubbing - you can pick up the bag and rub it against the rough surface once the initial felting is done and you are finishing the fulling. In fact I have found that if you wrap your work in a cotton or polycotton piece of fabric, like an old pillowcase or tea towel (not your best one) and just roll and roll, it will full really quickly. I still haven't worked out why this happens, but it does work and you don't need to put a lot of force into it, so it's better for your back and arms.
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Post by caterina on May 12, 2021 11:53:47 GMT
When you continue fulling try not to stretch the holes any bigger. I would do some rolling too. cover it in plastic or a shear if that's what you use and rolling on a textured surface. like a glass washboard or a boot tray, car floor mat or maybe the tray that goes under a dish drain rack. the plastic or shear will protect it. That is a goid point also, Ann. And thank you for the tips on proper fulling: I need them. Caterina
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Post by caterina on May 12, 2021 11:55:37 GMT
When you continue fulling try not to stretch the holes any bigger. I would do some rolling too. cover it in plastic or a shear if that's what you use and rolling on a textured surface. like a glass washboard or a boot tray, car floor mat or maybe the tray that goes under a dish drain rack. the plastic or shear will protect it. Or a bamboo blind or really anything that is rough rather than sharp to add friction to your rolling or rubbing - you can pick up the bag and rub it against the rough surface once the initial felting is done and you are finishing the fulling. In fact I have found that if you wrap your work in a cotton or polycotton piece of fabric, like an old pillowcase or tea towel (not your best one) and just roll and roll, it will full really quickly. I still haven't worked out why this happens, but it does work and you don't need to put a lot of force into it, so it's better for your back and arms. How peculiar, I need to try this old pillowcase trick, I am all for quick fulling :-D Thanks for the ideas! Caterina
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Post by Shepherdess on May 12, 2021 13:48:17 GMT
Try rolling in different things. The soft rubbery shelf liner you get in rolls is good and a yoga mat for bigger things works well. I use my outdoor rug/mat a lot. It's like the bamboo blind but made from plastic. They sell the long thin ones as beach mats at the dollar store.
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Post by caterina on May 14, 2021 8:26:42 GMT
Try rolling in different things. The soft rubbery shelf liner you get in rolls is good and a yoga mat for bigger things works well. I use my outdoor rug/mat a lot. It's like the bamboo blind but made from plastic. They sell the long thin ones as beach mats at the dollar store. Good, I love experimenting. I will have a look at pound shops, see what they can yeld, as soon as I have a bit of time. 😊
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