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Post by Shepherdess on Dec 11, 2014 22:54:39 GMT
I got it the drawing was fine. For some reason a lot of patterns they seem to make the top edge of the shoulder right above the bottom of the arm hole. the shoulder should extend farther out.
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Post by zed on Dec 12, 2014 10:03:19 GMT
Well you managed to say simply enough what I was trying to get at, Ann!
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Post by halay on Dec 14, 2014 13:59:27 GMT
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Post by Teri Berry on Dec 14, 2014 17:08:09 GMT
Does anyone know how she attaches the sleeves to the body? It looks like she ran a thread around the shoulder for easing but then did she use the same wet felting technique to attach them, the finished jacket looks seamless.
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Post by koffipot on Dec 14, 2014 17:09:45 GMT
I've just spotted this thread. What a super jacket! Love it. I know what you mean about fitting the armhole/shoulder area. If making a garment from pieces the curved sleeve head is slightly larger than the armhole and has to be "eased" in. A one piece garment can be nippy on the shoulder and baggy at the underarm. Also if you are more than a B cup then a full bust adjustment is needed even on a pieced garment. I fought against the challenge of making a seamless jacket and plumped for making 3 large pieces, a back, a front (to be cut up the middle later) and another large enough for the 2 sleeves, then cut and sewed it. www.flickr.com/photos/koffipot/sets/72157647425411094/
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Post by Teri Berry on Dec 14, 2014 17:15:42 GMT
Very nice jacket Judith, I love the narrower silver panel down the front and the silk ribbons adding a lovely sheen
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maisie
Junior Member
Posts: 33
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Post by maisie on Dec 14, 2014 20:07:10 GMT
I don't much like the look of the all in one sleeves on a jacket - they look a bit odd and give the impression of being restrictive. I have looked at lots of them on the net and as I don't have the room anyway, I am making a jacket in parts. The sleeve is always the most tricky part of the operation so I am experimenting with a 'square' sleeve and joining it to the jacket before I sew the seams. As I am known as Miss Hap in our house I'll let you know how the disaster comes out!
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Post by Pandagirl on Dec 15, 2014 15:58:06 GMT
Nada, thanks for the tutorial link. Wow that was a lot of shrinkage! I can only imagine how big the body was.
Judy, beautiful jacket. I love the color combination.
Maisie, I'm sure you'll find a way to make it work. Please show us pictures. We'll stay tuned!
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Post by zed on Dec 25, 2014 10:44:43 GMT
Teri, it seems you worked out the sleeves by yourself, but my Dad called round yesterday so I asked him anyway. It was hard for him to grasp the concept of working on a flat resist, and then shaping it more in 3D than 2D, but he was saying that tailors try to incorporate the movement needed for arms into the front and back, like with the darts under yokes on shirts/jackets. Also, a bit of shoulder padding allows some extra give at the top of an arm/shoulder, though I'd think that creates other problems. One thing I was wondering myself was whether using finer Merino in the underarm area would allow extra give/movement without bulk? Oh, one other thing, we were talking about collars, and he said 'felt doesn't have a bias does it?' which I thought was funny since we were talking about it recently, so I showed him it does, and he said collars are cut on the bias and shaped by pressing, so if anyone's thinking of adding collars to something, it could be useful to know that and maybe lay the felt at 45 degrees to the other layers. Last thing- I know a lot of old books on dressmaking/tailoring etc are on archive. org, here's one about men's garments: archive.org/details/americangarmentc01regaThis shop is selling PDFs, but a lot of them are vintage and available free online, just copy the title and search for it, there are a lot of archive sites digitising old books for free www.etsy.com/uk/shop/HowToBooks
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Post by Teri Berry on Dec 25, 2014 16:01:53 GMT
Thanks Zed, this is really helpful although still trying to get my head around how a dart below the yolk (top of shoulder?) will give more movement to the arms....? I might need to make myself a muslin to figure that one out. I have ordered a dressmaking / fitting book to see if that will offer any guidance and I have plans to try the method in the video posted by Nada (apologies if it wasn't Nada but someone else, you've all been so helpful I have forgotten who posted what!) which is a bit more like traditional dressmaking techniques.
The American Garment archive is both fascinating and hilarious, it is very proud to contain the most modern fashions and techniques (1904).
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Post by MTRuth on Dec 25, 2014 21:51:36 GMT
Archive.org has tons of good stuff on it
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Post by Pandagirl on Dec 25, 2014 22:48:04 GMT
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Post by zed on Dec 26, 2014 9:50:32 GMT
Teri, I think it's kind of 'redistributing' the measurements If you measure across the back, shoulder to shoulder, and it's about 20 inches, but then you bring your arms to the front, it could be like 28 inches of movement needed. Some of this extra is built into the sleeve allowance, but if you have it in the back, across the shoulders, like on a shirt, you don't need as much below in the waist area, so it's either baggy, or again like on shirts, darts are added. Me and my dad haven't made felt garments so it was just an idea that he might have some tailoring input that could help. Maybe it just doesn't translate He was concerned that people don't seem to design bends (at the elbow) into arms on things these days too
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Post by Shepherdess on Dec 26, 2014 15:03:07 GMT
We have so much stretch in fabrics today. My jeans stretch. I remember my dad always giving his pants a little tug up before sitting. when I did my muslin. we had to add fabric on the top of the upper arm. As a woman I am not supposed to have mussels. a men's garment probably would have been fine in the sleeve.
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Post by Teri Berry on Dec 26, 2014 18:40:29 GMT
Thanks Zed, I think it has potential to translate, I just need to acquire a bit more dress-making knowledge. It's interesting that your Dad mentioned bends in the elbows, after wearing my kitten dress for a day I noticed the fabric over the elbows has stretched slightly so that when my arms are straight the sleeves bulge a little behind my elbows. I was thinking the same Ann and trying to figure out how I could add some stretch to felt, so far I have 2 ideas: - use a very fine nunofelt over a naturally stretchy fabric such as cotton scrim (very open weave muslin / cheesecloth) - use stitching to gather the felt in lines so you get a concertina effect, I'm not convinced this method will hold it shape when worn though. - this is a sample of what I have in mind:
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